The Shanghai skyline has a side benefit. You can look up, look around, and find out if you’re walking in the right direction just by seeing where a skyscraper is in relation to you. The way ancient seamen would navigate by steering towards the pole star, you can reach your destination by walking towards or walking away from the Pearl TV Tower, or the Grand Hyatt Hotel.
30 April: A Travelogue
May 11, 2006Today was a day where cash was wasted. It’s one thing to spend money and get something out of it, but today I just got ripped off, or ended up with cash lost in translation.
I could ascribe it to not being experienced enough a traveler, but that’s no excuse. I’ve done enough travel to know where it is that there’s a high probability of being suckered.
I started out from my hotel in the midmorning. I travelled away from the river instead of to it, hoping that I would find something interesting and some place to eat.
I did find interesting things: gardens at the road intersections, and the fact that my street had it all: luxury hotels, machining workshops, convenience stores, hardware stores and real estate agents. As for places to eat, it had the entire range from mom-and-pop outfits to reasonably classy restaraunts.
A hard-to-break habit acquired in engineering college and uncertainity about how much I could afford to spend in the days to comedrove me into one of the mom-and-pop, or rather, mom-and-daughter-and-niece cafes. After a little back and forth with mom and daughter, English-speaking niece appeared. I settled on a set lunch and a banana shake. Not great, but not bad either, and it fills the stomach, which is a good deal for eighteen yuan.
After lunch, I hit the road again. I walked into what looked like a florist and discovered that it was actually the entrance to a much larger market- one so remarkable that it deserves an entire entry to itself.
I got back to the hotel, and checked my secondary mail account as an afterthought. I found that my dad had paid my credit card bill by check, not knowing that I had already paid it online. My credit limit, therefore, had increased by fifteen thousand rupees. Hooray! I could now spend more freely.
So now that I could spend more freely, what did I do? Walked into the cheapest restaraunt on the Bund for dinner. I said it was a hard habit to break, but it turned out to be an expensive one as well. The place made up for the low price by serving a horribly inedible meal- and charging fifteen yuan for a glass of green tea- a bottle of which costs two and a half in a supermarket.
Oh well. I resolved to stop skimping, and spending as much as I liked if it was worth it. And I started by asking a taxi to take me to Motel 168 near Dalian Road.
Ten minutes and fiteen yuan later, my cab pulled up at Motel 168, not near Dalian Road, but on Dalian Road. I finally understood why the reception hadn’t been able to find my reservation the previous day: they didn’t have it. My taxi driver on that day had taken me to the wrong Motel 168. This taxi driver had dropped me to the right one, but this was hardly any consolation, especially since all my luggage was in the wrong one.
Still, the wrong hotel had its advantages. It was seedy, yes: the primary clientele seemed to be Shanghai university students who had come there for an intimate afternoon; and single misfits like me got telephone calls in our rooms at midnight asking if we wanted massage. Still, it had undeniable advantages: free internet access in the lobby (albeit from a terminal running Windows 98 and IE5), it was on the same road as a market I might not have discovered otherwise, and joy of joys, its very limited selection of TV channels still had the Chinese feed of Star Movies, which comes with English subtitles. Chinese horror movies manage to outdo the Ramsay Brothers ones in sheer cheesiness. The motivation behind the entire plot of one was summed up by the subtitle: ‘Blood Monster raped and killed Mindy!’ In another one, an intrepid Chinese aunty destroys evil demons by photographing them and capturing their spirits on film. I also saw the ending of a Hong Kong ripoff of City of Angels. Mere words cannot describe it.
But coming back to my predicament of being on Dalian Road instead of near Dalian Road. Not wishing to get even more lost by trying to find tyhe direct route, I actually ended up walking the distance twice over: from Dalian Road to the Bund, and then back to my Motel 168 using the route I knew. Adada.
But I did reach it without further disaster, and after I got into bed I turned on Star Movies Chinese to watch Karate Girls, the fascinating story of a Chinese-pop girl group who go to a monastery to learn Karate. What a wonderful way to end the day.
The Joy of Literal Translations
May 8, 2006
God’s Final Message to All His Creation has absolutely nothing on this most excellent of apology signs.
Now, isn’t that so much cooler than just saying “Careful: Wet Floor”?
If only Indian Railways had Civilized Service Model Channels. Or any Civilized Service.
Perhaps it’s an aphrodisiac.
If I have to Buy Down Wear, shouldn’t I Down The Stairs?
Don’t even ask.
Why doesn’t he join Alcoholics Anonymous then?
A place full of Orientalism as well as Occidentalism; a spiritual paradise for enjoying yourself. Unless you’re Edward Said, of course. And he’s dead, so it’s all good.
Alive and Kicking in China
April 29, 2006To my slight disappointment, Maajorly Shadymax Arbit Fundaes is not considered important enough or subversive enough for the Chinese government to block.
I write this from a Public Internet Club. Detailed travelog and photos will be posted once I am back in India.
Photoblogging a Protest March
April 17, 2006United Students conducted a protest march against the extension of OBC reservations to central universities last week. I was there to photograph it. Sorry about the delay in putting the photos up, I’ve not always been at home since then.
Photos and commentary follow below the cut.
Censorship for Television too
April 17, 2006The UPA government, bless its fascist little heart, is planning to introduce legislation to set up a content regulator for television. The Hindustan Times report I’ve linked to mentions, among other things:
- that Priyaranjan Dasmunshi, the I&B minister said that it was the uniform view of viewers that there was a need for content regulation and comprehensive legislation. Which viewers? How many of them? Have they asked the man?
- that the government wants a clampdown on sensationalization of news, especially crime news. So I guess the next time there’s a riot in Gujarat, or anywhere else for that matter, the government can stop NDTV from broadcasting images as they’re too sensational. Public awareness? What public awareness?
- Ooh, and here’s the good stuff: channels can be temporarily suspended for a short term if they default the code (which code? It doesn’t say). After Fernandesgate, all the government could do was drag Tehelka’s promoters to court. With this new and improved legislation, you can shut down that pesky news channel straight away. Why waste time at the courts?
Enjoy your TV news while you can.
Why only rape?
April 13, 2006This DNA editorial talks about fast track courts for rape cases. It points out that a trial that drags on for years hurts the victim as much as the actual rape did, and that it allows perpetrators to tamper with evidence and intimidate prosecution witnesses. It congratulates a Rajasthan court for returning a verdict in a rape case within a month of charges being pressed.
I am as pleased as the editor that the fast-track court was able to bring in a verdict quickly, but the fact that we are talking about fast-track courts points to how pathetic our justice system is. All our courts need to deliver verdicts as quickly as this fast-track court: whether for rape cases, murder cases, or civil cases. Slow justice in the criminal courts helped acquit Manu Sharma and allows Salman Khan to remain unpunished for running over pavement dwellers. For perpetrators who are not as rich or politically well-connected, it means that they are imprisoned in judicial custody for longer than a guilty verdict would call for. In civil cases, it locks up billions of rupees in legal costs, and lost commercial opportunities.
The moral and economic costs that the state of the judiciary imposes on India means that judicial and legal reform is now more important than any economic reforms that the Finance Ministry or the RBI might bring forward.
Guns. Lots of Guns.
April 13, 2006I’ve been reading Samizdata for a year and a half. It’s a British group blog which discusses libertarian principles.
I agree with a lot of what is posted over there in theory, but yesterday’s and today’s news has made me appreciate one of their recurring themes on a deeper level: the importance of allowing people to possess firearms.
For context, read this post by Skimpy and the Metroblogging Bangalore post on the rioting following Rajkumar’s death. Hooligans have used his death as an excuse to run amuck, destroying government and private property under a pretence of grief. They’ve been threatening business owners to shut down or else. MadMan has written in by email that the police aren’t even bothering to protect anyone, they’ve simply asked everyone to close shutters for their own protection.
Skimpy writes:
No one talks about this one lost day of business for them. No one talks about the fresh bread ‘Iyengar’s Bakery’ would have baked this afternoon and was unable to sell because some goondas forced the shop shut. No one talks about the fact that half the city had to walk back home from work tonight, because the buses weren’t running.
If the Iyengar’s Bakery manager had a gun behind the counter, he could have driven the mob away. He wouldn’t have had to shoot them: the threat would have been enough to control the hooligans, who would have been armed only with sticks. An armed passenger on a bus could have responded to stone-throwing mobs with warning shots.
The obvious objection is that unrestricted gun ownership could lead to the hooligans owning guns too. I think this is not much of a problem- the important point is not whether the hoooligan has a gun or not, but whether the law abiding citizen does. A situation where 80 business owners and 20 hooligans both have guns is still preferable to one where the business owners are unarmed and the hooligans have hockey sticks. Also, a gun in the hands of the business owner is not meant to kill: it’s meant to threaten- to show the hooligans that he faces deadly consequences.
A much bigger problem is our justice system: if someone is arrested for killing a hooligan in self-defense, he could be arrested for murder or manslaughter and end up in police custody for years before the trial closed. Unless police procedure to such homicides is to not press charges, the backlog of cases in the courts could itself make a mockery of self-defence.
The Futility of Regulation
April 8, 2006Duck, Duck, Goose
April 5, 2006or, Travels through Hauz Khas Park with Camera in Hand.
Hauz Khas literally means ‘Special Tank’. It’s a neighbourhood in Delhi named after a small lake built for the Sultan of Delhi’s wife to have her bath (I’m a little hazy on the exact historical details).
There are actually three Hauz Khas neighbourhoods today. Hauz Khas, which has genteel middle class homes. Hauz Khas Enclave, which is also residential, but much richer. And Hauz Khas Village: the old village, which is now a tourist destination where rich (and perhaps gullible) tourists come to spend money on designer clothes and eat at fancy restaraunts.
Hauz Khas Village is right next to Hauz Khas Park, which is lots of parkland surrounding the old lake, and the tombs and palaces built next to it. I took an evening walk in the park today, and had my camera along.
(Photos below the cut)
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