People to People Contacts

May 17, 2006

This travel journal is coming to an end. I have described almost everything I have seen and done, and it now remains only to pontificate upon The Meaning Of It All.

I have emerged out of China with the realization that the Chinese are not very different from Indians. They too buy fairness creams, watch bad movies, and have an unhealthy link between celebrating and eating. On a more serious note, they have the same motivations we do: to get rich, to make the most of the freedom they do have, and to enjoy the company of their friends and family (more friends than family thanks to population control strictures).

To put it plainly, the Chinese are as human as us. They don’t have a superhuman sense of discipline. The sales director of a Chinese factory isn’t trying to help China conquer the world, he’s just trying to make his sale. The same way the Indian one is.

About two years ago, I had written rude and mocking things about Track II diplomacy and  people-to-people contacts. At that time, it was about a Youth Initiative for Peace thingummy being organised in Pune, with twenty students from Pakistan and twenty from India being invited to meet each other. Back then I had called it naive and idealistic (though admittedly I was doing so mostly to irritate my brother).

Now that I’ve returned from China, have I changed my mind? Am I now convinced that people-to-people contacts are important and useful ways to bring countries whose relations have deteriorated closer together?

Hell no. In fact, the realisation that people are the same actually makes me more convinced of the utter uselessness of people-to-people contacts.

Don’t get me wrong. People-to-people contacts are great for people. They’ll make new friends, get insights into a new culture, and generally feel good about it. The relationship between the people will improve.

But what about the relationship between the countries? You still need old-fashioned diplomacy for that, I’m afraid. In fact, given that people are the same, strained relations between countries must be the result of fundamental differences in culture, or the nature of the respective states or governments. That sort of thing needs to be addressed at the level of the governments and states, not at the level of individual citizens. In fact, for countries like India and Pakistan where the vast majority of citizens have little or no influence on their governments, expecting people contacts to result in diplomatic benefits is especially futile.

So, if you want to go and meet someone from another country, more power to you. But don’t expect it to magically yield diplomatic dividends.


An Indian Puzzle

May 17, 2006

There was an another phenomenon that I almost put into the post about Chinese puzzles: that people were making out all over Shanghai (and Singapore too, but I got used to that in December). You could hardly move without seeing someone or the other being affectionate in an emphatic way.
I formed hypotheses about that as well. Was it caused by communism breaking down traditional taboos? Or by market liberalization breaking down a puritanical communist society?

But people making out is not a puzzle at all. There is no point asking why people make out and forming hypotheses to explain it. Public displays of affection are almost universal. The important question to ask is: why don’t people make out in India?

The culture shock is still there. But in this case, the deviating culture is not China but India. It is as unnatural for a society to frown on being affectionate in public as it is unnatural for small cars to be missing despite the presence of millions of motorcyclists who would be anxious to upgrade.

What does it say about us as a society when the other countries which have similar taboos on PDA are  ones like Saudi Arabia and Iran?


Four Chinese Puzzles

May 16, 2006

Update: Welcome DesiPundit readers! Do visit my other China travel posts: Home Improvement, Shook Lee Ya, 30 April: A Travelogue, and The Joy of Literal Translations.

There were some things in China which were particularly weird or inexplicable. Here are four of the prominent ones.

The Mystery of the Missing Jewellery

Very few Chinese women wear jewellery, or even have their ears pierced. The proportion of women with pierced ears was a lot higher in Shanghai than in places like Qingdao and Dalian, but it was far from being as universal as it is in India or (what little I have seen of) the West.

Interestingly, in the smaller cities like Jinan and Qingdao, the few women who did have earrings were machine operators or airline ground crew, while engineers, air hostesses and office executives had unpierced ears. Twenty to twenty-five women is admittedly a small sample size, but there seemed to be some sort of inverse correlation between jewellery and income.

Hair colouring was much more prevalent, though- and women of all income groups seemed to be colouring their hair- from teenage punks to the lady selling loquats from pole baskets.

My hypothesis: perhaps there is no long-standing tradition of Chinese jewellery for non-aristocrats, and the economic liberalization of the past few years has led to a Western concept of jewllery and ornamentation for everyone being adopted. Low-income women might in fact prefer jewellery, as it allows them to buy tradeable assets; higher-income women would buy financial assets instead (funda courtesy Prof. Vaidyanathan, my first year Investments professor).

The Mystery of the Missing Small Cars

There are some small (by which I mean Zen/ Alto/ Santro) sized cars in China, but they’re pretty rare. The entry level car is pretty much a midsize sedan- the Volkswagen Santana is one of the most popular.

And yet, there are a huge number of people on an entire range of two wheelers: bicycles, electric bicycles, mopeds, scooters and motorcycles. There’s a huge gap between the motorcycles and the Santanas, but Kia (the only make of small car I saw) seems unable to fill it. Even if Kia isn’t able to do it, you would expect some competing auto manufacturer to occupy the niche. But it remains empty.

My hypothesis: Chinese banks are not particularly customer focused, and are reluctant to give car loans to anybody whose income level is not high enough to make a midsize car affordable. Chinese banks would have little or no experience with consumer finance, and without competition from foreign banks, they would have no incentive to create consumer finance products either. That makes life difficult for anybody who wants to upgrade from a motorcycle to a small car.

The Mystery of Shanghai’s Zoning Laws

The mystery is not really about the zoning laws: there don’t seem to be any.

Like this: upscale apartments with little shops on the ground floor.

Ground Floor Shops

And a nice restaraunt that’s right next door to a machining shop:

No Zoning Laws in Shanghai?

And this three star hotel with factories behind it:

Hotel and Smokestacks

The mystery is not so much that there are no zoning laws, but that despite the lack of zoning laws, land prices remain so low that you can have things like machining workshops on the same road as three star hotels and upscale restaraunts.

Normally, the lack of zoning restrictions adds an option value to real estate. That is, real estate becomes more valuable for the simple reason that you can convert its use to whatever there is more demand for. When there is no restriction on what property is used for, real estate prices should shoot up.

If the guy who runs the workshop is renting the property, the owner would rather kick him out and lease it to someone willing to pay more- such as a three star hotel; and if the guy owns the place, then he’d sell it to the three star hotel himself. So why are all the workshops still around?

Hypothesis 1: The legendary cutting of Chinese red tape exists only for big ticket foreign investors. If you are only a machine shop owner on Zhoujiazui Road, you will find it much more difficult to shut down your workshop and set up a hotel. The option value of converting your land usage is thus very low.

Hypothesis 2: Property rights being what they are in China, the government could sieze your land- whether it is a machine shop or a hotel- for its own purposes at any time. This would not only wipe out the option value, it would also strongly discourage property owners from making capital intensive investments like putting up hotels or apartment blocks.

The Mystery of Condom Pricing

Our hotel in Qingdao provided condoms and sex gel (a sort of herbal preparation which you rub on your genitals prior to intercourse to prevent STDs- there are separate gels for males and females) in the toilet. It made an interesting addition to the usual complement of bathtub foam and shampoo bottles.

Price Elasticity of Sex Gel

What made it different was that the shampoo bottles were free, but the condom and the sex gel packets were 10 yuan each. This doesn’t (heh, pardon the pun) gel. If you aren’t charging anything for shampoo, why charge for condoms? The cost cannot be all that different.

Hypothesis: this is perhaps due to (heh, pardon the other pun) elasticity. (Incidentally, on the topic of bad puns about sexual aids, Durex has a brand in China called Jeans. Perhaps because it’s a comfort fit?) If you have to use a condom, you will probably use it anyway even if it does cost 10 yuan (and especially if you won’t see the charge until you check out). On the other hand, if shampoo were priced, you could just go a day without shampooing. The way in which condoms are used make them much more price inelastic than shampoo and soap, and the hotel simply takes advantage of it.


Home Improvement

May 13, 2006

In this post, I had mentioned that I had found a market which deserved a post all by itself. Well, here’s the post.

I had walked up and down Zhoujiazui Road in search of a cheap and clean place to have lunch. I’d seen what looked like a florist while wakling up and while walking down, and while walking down made a mental note to go inside and take a closer look.

So, after lunch, I walked up again and did take a closer look.

I entered, and discovered to my pleasant surprise that it wasn’t just a florist- well, it was, but the florist was just one of the many shops that were built into a sort of indoor market.

Unlike a regular minimarket, this one had no grocery stores, or courier shops, or PCOs. It was built around a theme: home decoration. Only that it took quite an extensive view of what counted as home decoration. Sure, there were shops for sculpture, porcelain, and paintings. But most of the shops were dedicated to pets.

And not just cats and dogs (though those were there too), but also birds:

Cockatoos of Some Sort

A Lovebird, I think

I Know Why The Caged Bird Sings

There were also several small furry animals:

Hamsters

Hamsters…

Squirrels

… and squirrels.

There were also lots of turtles.

Turtle Power

Go Green Machine

Hero in a half-shell

I've run out of TMNT references

There was also an entire lane dedicated to aquariums, fish, and fish food. It was impossible to photograph any of the acquariums without getting a reflection of either myself or the flash, so I did the next best thing and photographed the fish tanks the fish were kept in before being put into the aquariums:

Fish tanks.

Towards the more exotic side of the scale, there was a pair of iguanas.

Iguanae

There was also a box of frogs, but I have no idea whether they were meant to be pets or pet food:

Frogs

But the most interesting pets in the market were to be found at a shop that sold nothing but crickets.

Crickets in Glass Boxes

Most of the crickets were kept in glass boxes.

Crickets

Crickets Redux

But for the final sale, they were shifted to little cane cages.

Nobody over there spoke English, so I couldn’t figure out why crickets were so much in demand, but I’m guessing that the idea is to hand the little cage in your garden so that when it starts making its noise, your garden sounds natural. Of course, I could be wrong.

There weren’t only pets, as I’d mentioned earlier. There were also shops for porcelain (especially tea sets), paintings and scrolls, sculpture, and drawings on the sides of dried-out gourds. Unfortunately, their owners weren’t too enthusiastic about me taking photographs- especially as I pottered about the sculpture shop for ten minutes, asked about various items in a mixture of sign language and punching in numbers on a calculator, and finally refused to buy a bust with a different Buddha (frowning, smiling, laughing, and blissful) on each side.

I was able to get some photos of Bonsai and Bonsai mountains, though.

Bonsai Mountain

A bonsai mountain (though I doubt it was grown the way Lu-tze did it in Thief of Time).

Bonsai mountain range

And an entire bonsai mountain range. If you look closely (or follow the link and check the orginal size), you can make out the pagoda and the boatmen and the foot of the mountains.

And finally, what had pulled me into the shop to begin with: bonsai itself.

Bonsai

An afternoon well spent, it was.


Shook Lee Ya

May 13, 2006

May Day is a holiday in China. A week long holiday, running from the first of May to the sevent of May, and ruthlessly devouring any weekends foolish enough to be in the vicinity. People from all over China take the week off to stay at home or to travel. Many of those who travel come to Shanghai. And everyone who comes to Shanghai comes to the Bund.

On the first of May, as I went up to the Bund, a girl in a pink jacket called out to me. ‘Indian?’

I stopped and said yes. The girl introduced herself as an English student at Beijing University.

Alarm bells went off in my mind. This was exactly the sort of thing Wikitravel warns travelers to China about: being befriended by university students who then drag you to an art gallery and make you buy high-priced stuff you don’t really want. At the same time, the temptation to have a conversation that didn’t use sign language or phrasebook entries was irresistible.

“Are you a student?”

“Not anymore. I’ve finished studying. I start work in July.”

“Okay. You speak English?”

“Yes.”

“What language do people speak in India?”

“Many. Hindi in the North, Marathi in the West,”- she was already looking bewildered with two languages, so I finished off with “and four languages in the South.”

She blinked and shook her head. “But English is the second language for everyone?”

“Yes.”

“You look a little Chinese.”

“I look Chinese?”

“You look a little Chinese.”

“Why?”

“I don’t know.”

She paused.

“There is a Chinese Art Museum in Shanghai which I came to see. Would you like to see it?”

Alarm bells rang again. Art Museum? This looked more and more like the scam described in Wikitravel with every moment. On the other hand, I could always refuse to buy anything she was selling- heck, I didn’t even have much money with me, and being taken to a new part of Shanghai by a pretty English-speaking girl had its attractions. Of course, at this point of time I wasn’t counting the 400 US dollars in my wallet- which I’m sure Chinese university ‘students’ would just love.
“Okay.”

She led the way. The ‘Museum’ was only fifteen or twenty metres away- it was a room in the basement of the Bund promenade with a latched but unlocked door. Paintings and scrolls were hanging on the walls.

She pointed out a set of Four Seasons scrolls, and then to a scroll of a red and black fish.

“The Chinese character for fish is pronounced the same way as the Chinese charcter for more. So the painting of a fish sybolises that you’ll have more money in the future.”

“Oh yeah. I heard that story yesterday.”

“Where?”

“At the home decoration market on… let me look… Zhojiazui Road. Sombody explained it to me there.”

“You speak very good English.”

“Thank you.”

“At Beijing University there are some people from India. But their English isn’t as good.”

“In different parts of India, people start learning English at different times.”

“How do people in India say thank you?”

“Shukriya.”

“Shukia?”

“Shu-kri-ya.”

“Shook-lee-ya.”

“Yeah.”

“Okay. Shook-lee-ya.”

“Xie xie.”

We shook hands, and went off.

It was anticlimactic. I hadn’t been forced to buy overpriced art, or even had a pitch made to me. Nor had I been dragged into a side alley and mugged. My passport was still with me, as was my air ticket.

Wikitravel should come with disclaimers in big cyan boxes: “Be aware of the dangers, but take risks anyway.”


Lady Bus Drivers

May 12, 2006

In Shanghai, quite a few of the public transport system buses are driven by women.

Of course, it is always a bad idea for women to drive anything, but putting grumpy Chinese aunties behind an eighty-ton hunk of metal and rubber is a particularly ingenious method evolved by  by the Chinese state apparatus to cow the population into fearful submission.


On seeing the Chinese Police

May 12, 2006

A thought comes. The American Desi sort of claim that India is free because you can piss against a tree any time you feel like it is silly. Being able to do things illegally without fear of the consequences is a measure of how incompetent and/ or corrupt the police is. The real measure of liverty is being empowered by the law to do whatever you damn well please.


Hustler

May 12, 2006

As you ignore the hustlers on Nanjing Road, they actually move up the value chain in what they’re offering, probably reasoning that it wouldn’t hurt to try.

Thus, the patter goes “Hello! Rolex Omega Mont Blanc Shoes bag! bar! beerbarladybarsexbar .” With a crescendo of desperation to make a sale building up.


Stink

May 11, 2006

Call me a chuavinist, but I prefer the stink of Bombay to the stink of Shanghai.

The smells of Bombay duck, the shit of all of the open defecators, and the effluent-poisoned sewage mix up to produce an alive sort of smell- like an unsavoury ruffian you nevertheless befriend, and who eventually grows on you.

In Shanghai, the smog presses down on the city, trapping the garbage, which ages with a stale, withered smell. It’s like the smell of the elderly grandmother you never have anything to talk to about.


Skyscrapers

May 11, 2006

The Shanghai skyline has a side benefit. You can look up, look around, and find out if you’re walking in the right direction just by seeing where a skyscraper is in relation to you. The way ancient seamen would navigate by steering towards the pole star, you can reach your destination by walking towards or walking away from the Pearl TV Tower, or the Grand Hyatt Hotel.